I’d been vaguely aware of the hobbit house in central Washington for years. Its tantalizing photos graced my Instagram feed from time to time.

And so it was that one lazy December evening I was scrolling through said feed when I happened upon a post from the owner putting out a call to be a steward for a couple of nights (free of charge) to keep the pipes from freezing. Without thinking about the weather or my schedule, I messaged the host. Within a few hours, it was all arranged.

But then I researched it a little more. Right away two things gave me pause:

• It was about a six-hour drive from my home in Portland (I could’ve sworn it was closer)
• It required a front- or all-wheel drive to access the hobbit house

It was a little further away than I wanted, but I love to drive, so what the heck? However, this was December and I knew that I’d be climbing in elevation to the heart of Washington State. Snow was imminent. Could my little Mini handle it? This is when I realized that indeed my late model Mini Clubman was AWD, so I was set! I just set my GPS to Hobbit Inn and away I went.

Oh, To Unwind in a Hobbit House

My adventurous spirit kicked into overdrive (pun intended) and I packed my car.

The Hobbit Inn (also known as the Underground Hygge) can be booked via Airbnb with wonderful hosts who are helpful and respond quickly to any questions or requests. Having said that – I had little to no cell reception at the hobbit house. Calls kept dropping and texts took minutes to be delivered, if they were delivered at all.

This is not the fault of the owners, but rather the remote location and higher elevations, but something to be aware of going in.

After all, I was at the hobbit house to unplug, right?

This is what a true Hobbit experience is all about. To unplug. If you really need to connect to the outside world, the small town of Chelan is less than a 15-minute drive away.

Just before reaching the hobbit house, you will begin to climb a mountain (or, as we say here in the Pacific Northwest, a large hill). The dirt road switchbacks past private homes before reaching the top where your medieval getaway awaits.

My excitement grew when I finally parked in front of the small shed next to the lot. In the wintertime, it will be stocked with snow shovels and ice tracks for your shoes.

Once there, park your car in a small parking lot and then hike the short but steep pathway to the hobbit house. Walking up the fairytale-like path was like being invited to an enchanted land.

An oasis in the clouds.

Lord of the Rings House – PNW Style

The owners put quite a bit of thought and care into the place.

For fans of Lord of the Rings, this is your chance to live the lifestyle in full force. We’re talking true hobbit life. And yes, that means roughing it a little! The hobbit house is literally built into the side of the hill, providing natural insulation. This keeps it cool in the summer and not too cold in the winter. There is running water and electricity made possible by a generator, which you will have to know how to run. Don’t worry, instructions are provided for the novice.

The round door merely hints at the treasure that awaits inside. The place is small, to be sure, but is intricately decorated and furnished. And much like the hobbit house in The Lord of the Rings movies.

The bathroom is an absolute joy, with a shower and deep tub, a sink, and a pull-chain flush toilet. The queen bed is very comfy; along with the hum of the generator outside, I slept like a baby, While there is no kitchen (as of early 2024, one is currently being built just a few steps up the road) there is a table to prepare food, along with a kettle and pour-over coffee/tea station. I brought a cooler with my own food.

And yes, you can even whittle some wood at this table. If you so desire.

A gas fireplace, a chess/checkerboard table, and a couples’ card game complete the cozy setting. If you are a solo traveler needing to unwind or a couple needing some rustic romance, you cannot choose a better destination.

I had a grand old time reading in bed next to the warming fireplace, sipping a cup of hot chocolate. The temperature was just below freezing outside, but the generator kept the place toasty, and the bedding was a delight to snuggle into.

The view from the front of the Hobbit House is nothing short of spectacular. In the winter, you may struggle to see things through the layer of fog below, but during the summer? I can easily see myself spending an entire afternoon in the cutely decorated front yard under the sun in a chair, soaking it all up. The house towers above the Columbia River in the distance.

Here you are lord of all you survey.

Things to Do in Chelan

When you need a break from the utter charm that is the Underground Hygge (or if you’d like something other than the food you brought) Chelan is just a few miles away.

Chelan is the closest town, and here you’ll find a main street downtown with a few lovely local shops, a coffee shop with great pastries and breakfast quiche, a really good Mexican restaurant, a couple of other restaurants and bars, and a grocery store. The farmers market is a riot of colors and flavors—don’t pass up on the locally grown apples; they’re crisp, sweet, and just the right kind of juicy, practically bursting with the taste of sunny afternoons.

If you’re in the mood for adventure with a splash, Lake Chelan will call out to you louder than the friendly locals. Here, you can zip around on a jet ski with the wind teasing your hair, or perhaps leisurely paddle in a kayak, tracing the serene shoreline at your own rhythm. And for those who like their grape juice fermented, well, Chelan’s wineries are more than just a sip and swirl affair.