The North Cascades is a wilderness paradise. My previous trip to the Northern Cascade Loop took us on a couple of epic hikes, with some of the best backpacking Washington State has to offer, but little did I know there is so much to the area of northern Washington State than meets the eye.
I was about to find out.
As you are driving along the Cascade Loop Scenic Byway on the northern part, you will no doubt pass through the tiny little town of Newhalem. There is a nifty train engine and some unassuming white houses. Nothing special, right?
Don’t be fooled. You’re gonna want to stop here, at least for an hour or two. I made the mistake of driving straight through the first time we came to the upper Cascades. This is where J.D. Ross began his empire. Well, who the heck is that and why should I care, you ask?
J.D. Ross is the founder of what is today the Skagit River Hydroelectric Project (SHP). It is a series of dams with power-generating stations on the Skagit River. Three major dams in the SHP are Gorge Dam, Diablo Dam, and Ross Dam.
J.D. Ross is even buried here!
When this was all getting started about 100 years ago, Newhalem was a boomtown of worker s and their families, putting this project together. Today, a few people still live here, but it is primarily a place to tour, get a sense of the history, and tour the powerhouse on the east side of town.
Today, the project is owned by Seattle City Light (J.D. is known as the “Father of Seattle City Light”), the organization that provides electric power to the Seattle and the surrounding communities. You can tour the Gorge powerhouse, and there is even a nice walking trail up behind the power plant looking over a rushing waterfall, called Ladder Creek Falls.
Fun Fact: To complete Diablo Dam, more than 1.75 million bags of cement were hoisted up the mountain in a little over 10,000 trips. That’s dedication! And even more impressive, the project’s construction took place over the Great Depression. City Light was recognized for completing one of the larger heavy construction projects during the Great Depression without any federal funding.
The North Cascades Institute’s Environmental Learning Center (ELC)
Further east on Highway 20 about 8 miles from Newhalem, the ELC is a modern and sustainable learning center that educates young and old alike about the area. It is a gorgeous campus nestled on the shores of Diablo Lake. The institute even provides adventures for the entire family in exploring the wilderness.
Whether it is for an afternoon, an overnight stay or a weekend, the ELC has dozens of program designed to get you outside exploring and connecting with the wild wonders of this unique region. Think such activities as family camp, boat tours, conferences and small group classes on photography, mushrooming and birding. They have a Base Camp for overnight stays.
It’s an awesome way to learn about the natural and cultural history of this indigenous land. The ELC even partners with Native Tribes in the area to get expert advice on how to best protect and preserve these lands.
JD Ross had his hands in many pots during his heyday and the construction of the project. He even decided to play mother nature and bring in some species not native to the area – such as the albino deer! And yes, we got to see one up close and personal at the ELC.
Skagit Tours
The boat ride on Diablo Lake was nothing short of spectacular. A short walk from the ELC to the boat dock and we boarded the Alice Ross IV. (Fun fact: Alice was the wife of JD Ross). For the next hour, we toured the lake with the stunning backdrop of the Northern Cascades.
It was a mostly sunny afternoon and the weather couldn’t have been more perfect. We even got up close and personal with the face of Diablo Dam. This dam is somewhat unique in that the configuration of it resembles a checkerboard.
One thing that was interesting that I’d never seen before: we passed a sailing vessel with a flatbed carrying a couple of heavy construction vehicles. Where they were going, I had no idea, but apparently, it was to the other side of Diablo Lake.
Nothing is more dramatic than sailing in blue waters surrounded by forested mountains and snow-capped peaks further beyond. Where you slowly breathe in the water’s scent and the wind whips through your hair.
If you are a hardcore backpacker, you could spend weeks here exploring the remote forest, camping fishing and just taking in the unspoiled grandeur of the North Cascades. It truly was a great experience and I’m so glad I came back after my initial trip.
The best time to experience all this area has to offer is to come during the summer months. Because of its remote location and weather patterns, many attractions and most camping areas are not open until late Spring.
Disclaimer: I was hosted by Seattle City Light and Skagit Tours in Newhalem and Diablo Lake, however, all opinion expressed here are my own.
