Misadventures in Olympic National Park – Part Deux

Old habits die hard, to coin a familiar phrase.

What that means is, as much as I talk about taking things slowly when you are traveling, I didn’t seem to want to listen to that inner voice this time. As with my first Olympic National Forest trip, I tried to jam pack as much as I could in the span of two days.

This was my second time solo hiking Olympic National Park; situated on a glorious and beautiful peninsula – kissed by the rainforest and holding so many mysteries. And again, I decided on a small one-night journey. Will I ever learn?

Read about my first ONP misadventure here.

A Blessing in Disguise?

At least something was on my side – the coronavirus pandemic. Sounds strange, doesn’t it? But it allowed me enough time to see more things, as many of the trails were still closed to visitors. I also knew that fewer people would be traveling this summer because of C-19.

I REALLY wanted to hike Third Beach to Strawberry Beach starting at the tiny village of La Push, and foolishly, I drove almost 1 ½ hours to the trailhead without checking the web for updates. I got there, only to discover that it was still off-limits to visitors. It was on tribal land, so I could definitely sympathize. The parking area was completely closed off.

Check out this great Olympic National Park Hiking map.

Kalaloch Beach and the Tree of Life

Much of Olympic National Park is on tribal land, and the indigenous people here are very protective of it, while also exhibiting the incredible generosity of sharing this land with visitors worldwide. However, this was during a pandemic, and so several areas were closed to the public.

During my trip, thankfully, Kalaloch Beach was not one of those areas. My mission was to photograph the Tree of Life at Kalaloch Beach, and I was privileged to do so.

Kalaloch Resort is right on Highway 101 on the west side of the peninsula. There is a general store where you can load up on snacks, with a few picnic tables scattered about. Just north of that is Kalaloch Beach and the trailhead. Park in the lot, and take the short trail to the beach. Once you reach the beach turn to your right (north) and in just a few steps you will encounter the Tree of Life.

I went back later in the evening when the sun was lower in the sky; when the lighting was better. The perfect time to photograph is when the setting sun is shining on the tree.

Sol Duc Falls

This is a resort and park located on the northern side of the peninsula, between Forks and Port Angeles. According to my sources, it was an easy 1.6-mile hike, and well worth the view. I turned off of Hwy 101 at the Sol Duc sign and made my way south through dense forest foliage.

And then I saw it.

It was almost otherworldly. And leisurely crossing the road, completely oblivious to my approaching car. The crown prince of the forest, in his native territory, his forever home.

My very first bear sighting! It was magical. As if that bear was put there for my eyes only to see. (I know it wasn’t). Nevertheless, it made my entire trip. You can tell that the bear didn’t really care whether I was there or not. Obviously, he (or she) was used to cars.

I continued on to Sol Duc Falls. It was an easy 0.8 mile (1.6 roundtrip) hike amidst majestic, old-growth forest and a nice rushing waterfall.

Ozette Loop Trail

Bright and early the next morning, I set out for this highly-recommended, triangle trail. When I arrived at the parking lot, I was happy to know that, not only was it open, but only two other vehicles were there, and one of them was a lone gentleman who looked to be getting out camera equipment.

I waved good morning to him as I passed and headed for the trailhead. Well, either it was too early in the morning and I had not yet acquired my full explorer master skills, or that bear sign really freaked me out. Perhaps it was both. But as I started the gorgeous trail, the hair stood out at the back of my neck, and my body tensed as I started the 3-mile hike to the ocean view.

Needless to say, I only got about half-way before the total pansy in me took over.

As I walked, I realized I was breathy heavily on a flat trail, and my body was one big nerve of tension. I couldn’t shake the thought of coming face to face with a bear, even though I’d read that they are non-aggressive in these parts and never approach humans. Nevertheless, I quickly developed a huge kink in my neck that proceeded to make it’s way down the right side of my body, making my hike very uncomfortable. Was it nerves? Yeah. Were they unfounded? Heck yeah! But I turned around anyway, silently cursing myself.

This was me, battling with the true dichotomy of my psyche. The scared little girl was beating down the fearless explorer. I was scaring myself for no reason. Me. Explorer Sue – who prides herself in going her own way, fearless on her own…

…until she is alone in the woods with bears in the area. I admit it, I let my imagination get the best of me. I let my unfounded fear get in the way of a great hike.

Here is a great article on what to do when you encounter a bear in the wild.

I chickened out. I turned back – when I would have been just fine. As I was doubling back, I met up with the camera guy.

“Done so soon?” he asked.

I mumbled something about backtracking a little and kept going, chastising myself silently.

Until we meet again, Ozette Loop! Maybe next time I’ll bring a hiking partner! By the way, dear readers, if you are interested, hit me up and I’ll be happy to meet you on this trail! It is one of the best on the Olympic Peninsula. I only wish I had the guts to hike it fully this time around. I hear the beach views are amazing.

Still, it was frustrating.

To get to Ozette Trail Loop, on Highway 101 coming either from the east or west, follow the signs and turn onto Hoko-Ozette Road, then drive for 21 miles to the Ozette Ranger Station and trailhead.

Pro Tip: If you are coming from the east (Port Angeles), do NOT take Highway 112. This is another way to get to Ozette, but the drive takes longer as it’s a winding road. And while it may seem more scenic because it follows close to the shoreline, you hardly see any of it due to the constant tree line. Taking Highway 101 is much faster.

Hurricane Ridge

Other than the Hoh Rainforest Information Center, this is the other main and most popular stop in Olympic National Park. It is easy to get to, as the road to Hurricane Ridge is just south going out of Port Angeles. After going through the ranger checkpoint, your car begins a steep ascent up the mountain. Hairpin turns, steep drop-offs, and jaw-dropping views await you on the road up.

Eventually, you will reach the interpretive center, where there are restrooms, a small café, a gift shop, and a lot of wildlife! This is America’s answer to Swiss Family Robinson. Indeed, this area used to be a ski resort, and remnants of the lift system remain.

There are several Hurricane Ridge hikes here, none of them very long. One of them is a steep incline to the very best view in Olympic National Park, Hurricane Hill Trail.

Olympic National Park Lodging

Where to Stay in Port Angeles. This is the main port where you can catch the ferry to Seattle, the San Juan Islands or Victoria, B.C. It is the most populated town on the Olympic Peninsula, so there are many places to stay. And with Hurricane Ridge being so close, most visitors do stay in Port Angeles.

I cannot recommend any one accommodation, as I have not stayed in Port Angeles, but browse the selection here.

Where to Stay in Forks. The town in which the now-infamous Twilight series was set (but never actually filmed in) has several options. The best choices are the  Forks Motel and the Olympic Suites Inn. Keep in mind this is a sleepy logging town and your options are limited! If you want more amenities, best to stay in one of the resorts mentioned below, or in Port Angeles.

Sol Duc Resort. Tucked deep into the forest on the northern end of the peninsula, this area also features a campground and hot springs! Spend the night in a rustic cabin, with all the amenities, then soak your cares away in a natural hot spring.

Hoh Rainforest Resort. Situated near the ever-popular Hoh Rainforest, here you can book cabins, yurts, glamping tents, or regular camping spaces (via Airbnb), with all of the amenities the resort provides.

Kalaloch Lodge. With views of the Pacific Ocean, this lodge is a little rough around the edges, but is a nice retreat, with a laid-back vibe.

For Olympic National Park camping, visit this informative site.

How to Get to Olympic National Park from Seattle:

By Ferry: Go to WSDOT to book your ferry (yes, you can take your car on board!)

By Car: Take I-5 South to Tacoma, then exit to Highway 16. From there, take Highway 302 west until you reach Highway 106. That will take you to Highway 101 North to Portland Angeles. The trip will take 3-4 hours, so plan accordingly.

How to Get to Olympic National Park from Portland:

By Car: Take I-5 North to Olympia, then exit directly to Highway 101. This trip will take 3-4 hours.

The Moral of This Story

Please, for all that is good and holy, DO NOT do what I did and rush around trying to see all of the good sights and hike all the good hikes in just 2-3 days. Plan, at the bare minimum, 4 entire days exploring Olympic National Park. This does not include the time it takes to get here and back to where you came from. For a relaxing vacation in this gorgeous area, plan for one full week. And do your research beforehand to get a feel for the spots that most interest you.