This is the first in a series of stories about my exploration of Vancouver Island, Canada. Makes for a great road trip in British Columbia. Read about parts two and three here. It is just one of many Pacific Northwest road trips you can take.
Vancouver Island is big. Well, big for an island, I suppose. In fact, it is the largest Pacific Island east of New Zealand. To put things in perspective, it takes roughly six hours by car to travel from Victoria at the southern end, up to the northern end, Port Hardy, where the main road stops. But it doesn’t end there. Venture further north past Port Hardy, and you are likely a hearty backpacker or have an experienced guide. This far north you are into an immense wilderness of wolf and bear country.
The main road north out of Victoria is Highway 1. Follow this road up to Nanaimo where it turns into Highway 19, called Inter-Island Highway, following the east shore of the island. There are many smaller roads breaking off from this main drag, weaving through various parts inland, but they are few and far between.
What this means is that there are great swaths of untouched wilderness and rainforest inland. This land is an outdoor enthusiasts and backpackers dream. There are so many little side roads leading you into parts unknown, I wish I could explore them all!
When planning an exploration of Vancouver Island, I have divided the trip into four loops. This blog post covers my journey of the first loop.
Loop One – Victoria – Sooke – Port Renfrew – Lake Cowichan – Ladysmith
My journey starts when the ferry from Port Angeles, Washington disembarks in Victoria, B.C. I don’t spend much time here, as I’ve been to Victoria several times before.This trip is to explore parts unknown (at least to me) outside of Victoria. I drive past the familiar Empress Hotel with its magnificent façade and high tea service. Past its Royal BC Museum and lovely Chinatown, to the suburbs of the city. Here I find sprawling upper-middle-class housing developments, and it is where I spend my first night in an Airbnb.
Bright and early the next morning, I leave Victoria to begin my first loop journey, to the neighboring municipality of Sooke, about 45 minutes by car to the west. My first stop is East Sooke Provincial Park, where I had a fantastic and eye-opening hike. Vancouver Island has a plethora of Provincial Parks, each one unique in their scenery and range of outdoor activities.
In Sooke, I fill up on gas and snacks, then take a quick look at the local Regional Museum. I hit the road again, going further west as I hug the coastline, and stop at French Beach. A small but spectacular beach overlooking San Juan de Fuca Strait. The perfect place for a picnic lunch and a bit of beachcombing.
After another hour of driving west on Hwy 14, I arrive at the end of the road, and the tiny town of Port Renfrew. The road here was gloriously twisting and turning through dense coastal forests bursting with Sitka Spruce and Douglas Firs, feeding my sense of adventure with the thrilling promise of new discoveries. But other than enjoying the scenery and a nice neighborhood pub, there is little to do in Port Renfrew itself.
While here, I had a bit of trouble finding the road leading inland to my next destination. I followed the sign to Lake Cowichan but somehow ended up on a dead-end residential street where I ran into these guys.
Local Residents
Turns out I just needed to follow the next road, which took me over a narrow bridge, inland into more forest that seemed to have suffered a recent fire. (picture here). This road is not to be traversed in a hurry (you are on island time!) – there were many one lane bridges where I had slow and give right of way to oncoming vehicles, of which there were very few!
An hour and a half later I arrived at the town of Lake Cowichan and stopped at the local A&W for a root beer float. A sweet reminder of my childhood. Lake Cowichan is a destination unto itself, located on the east end of Cowichan Lake, and offers great fishing spots, boating, golf courses, hiking and biking trails galore.
With my tasty root beer float in hand, I didn’t spend much time here other than taking a stroll along the Lake. But I easily could have, as the town had a relaxed and welcoming vibe! However, for me, it was back to hitting the open road for another half-hours’ drive to Highway 1 at the east side of the island, where I ended my day at the gorgeous seaside town of Ladysmith.
Ladysmith is a small-town paradise set on the water’s edge, where hiking, kayaking, and antique shopping rule. Rent a cabin or stay at a friendly AirBnB and soak up the welcoming Canadian hospitality. Only in a relaxed environment where the locals are proud of their town can they provide visitors such tranquility.
Follow me on my next blog article as I drive Loop 2 of my Vancouver Island exploration, which includes the lovely town of Nanaimo and the popular resort town of Tofino.
