Can you think of a place that is so untouched by human hands, and yet so traversed that it’s difficult to imagine why it remains so beautiful? Vancouver Island is one of those places. This nature-lovers dream of an Island is large enough to accommodate the best of several worlds. Among them, charming village and city life, fantastical rainforests and northern remote wilderness. See Part 1 and Part 2 of this epic road trip of mine.
My solo Vancouver Island journey takes me from the quaint village of Port Alberni at the center of the island, north up the Inter-Island highway to the village of Courtenay. It’s a great place to stop for coffee at Common Ground Café, or perhaps for lunch at The Hen and Hog Café. Dinner, you say? Then head to The Prime Chophouse and Wine Bar.
After you’ve fueled your body with food and/or caffeine, its time to explore nature! Head west on Forbidden Plateau Road (that’s such a cool name!) to Nymph Falls Nature Park. Walk down the path and step out onto the smooth, flat rock to witness a short yet breathtaking staircase waterfall. Sit on the rock, hang your feet over the edge and let the rapid waters pass you by beneath you. The evergreens envelop you on either side, hugging you with the promise of tranquility.
I was completely alone here in the early morning, around 8-ish. The sun was shining, making the water sparkle as the sun’s rays bounced off of the water and onto my face. It was incredibly peaceful to just sit on that rock, close my eyes and let the sounds of the rushing water and light winds through the trees permeate my consciousness.
When other nature lovers decided to join me, I smiled at them and moved on, so they could enjoy the peaceful solitude.
A few kilometers up the east side of the island is the small coastal city of Campbell River. It lies at the south end of Discovery Passage, part of the Inside Passage shipping route between the island and mainland of British Columbia.
Visit Discovery Fishing Pier, a great place to get your angling on! You can rent poles and other fishing equipment. There are picnics tables and even a concession stand. The Quinsam River Salman Hatchery, the Maritime Heritage Centre and Museum at Campbell River are popular tourist stops. For an easy, paved stroll, I recommend the Rotary Sea Walk. It is a 10 km path with spectacular views along the shoreline of Discovery Passage and nearby Quadra Island.
A ferry runs regularly from Campbell River to Quadra Island, which offers an exploration of old-growth forests and a plethora of sports and cultural activities. However, I did not partake of the island this time, as I was bound to go east inland of Vancouver Island for some real serenity.
Elk Falls Provincial Park
The salmon capital of the world is located right here in Campbell River, specifically the Quinsam River, where steelhead migrates during the winter months. It runs right alongside several campsites, for premium fishing.
But I came here for the suspension bridge! After parking in the main lot, I followed the path down to the waterfall. Along the way, there is a regular bridge that takes you over some intriguing looking, huge pipes. I explored the suspension bridge and marveled at the biggest waterfall I’ve seen on Vancouver Island yet! But those water pipes stayed in the back of my mind. Back at the parking lot, there is a small interpretive center telling about the area. I inquired to the kindly man at the visitors’ desk, and he explained that those pipes carried water from the river to the generated station for decades, and in fact were scheduled to be dismantled in just a few months. Good thing I visited when I did! The old and declining pipes will be replaced by more efficient, solar means of generated electricity.
Gold River
Take Highway 28 west from Campbell River toward Gold River. Along the way you will drive along Upper Campbell Lake, an inland beauty flanked by old-growth evergreen. Stop at Strathcona Park for a serene picnic lunch. Unless you’re a hardcore outdoor enthusiast, there won’t be much to do west of here, as the road end in the tiny settlement of Tahsis.
North Vancouver Island
Traveling north of Campbell River is generally where you’re getting into serious backpacker territory. The Village of Port Hardy is where you can meet up with a guide to take you to the northern tip of the island, Cape Scott Provincial Park and other hearty trails where backpackers spend a week or two doing what they love best.
Anyone visiting British Columbia should experience the absolute beauty that the wilderness of Vancouver Island provides. Dare to venture north of the tourist-laden yet awesome city of Victoria and experience the height of nature for yourself!
