Ever wonder what was down that lonely dirt road on your last road trip to a popular destination? Did you want to go down that road to see where it led, but couldn’t because you were in a time crunch, or your travel companion said ‘no’?

While planning an upcoming trip to Vancouver Island, British Columbia, I started honing in on some of the backcountry places on the island, particularly up north. While studying my trusty Vancouver Island map, I noticed that northern Vancouver Island is pretty sparse, and that intrigued me.

Cities in Vancouver Island

Sure, there are the (most visited) towns of Victoria and Tofino in the southern half of the island. And then there is one main road going up the length of the east side. But other than that? Google Maps makes Vancouver Island look pretty bare.

So I had to ask myself, is northern Vancouver Island even populated? Digging deeper, I found that of course, there are tiny remote island villages up north. But do these people get any regular visitors? That’s what I will endeavor to find out during my trip, by talking to the locals. Obviously, I will not be able to visit all of them. But you can be sure that I have at least researched all of them! And the ones I won’t be able to visit?

Well, read on…

These are the towns I have read up on, that I probably will not be able to squeeze in during my trip. Alas, I myself will drive by certain ‘lonely dirt roads’ and not be able to go down it to explore. (Oh, the agony!) But I shall nevertheless tell you what I found out about them here.

Holberg

In the northern and very rainy part of the Island, Holberg is an old logging community that can only be accessed by taking a dirt road west from Port Hardy. It is the gateway to several good hiking trails including Cape Scott and North Coast Trails. Once you’re here, prepare to step back in time: Little has changed in forty years. After experiencing the way-back machine, whet your whistle by visiting The Scarlet Ibis pub and restaurant.

Winter Harbour

This sleepy fishing village is North America’s westernmost settlement.  Back in the 1800’s, it was a haven for sailing ships to bunk down from the violent Pacific Ocean winds. Winter Harbour is also a popular spot for birders, who can view puffins, oystercatchers and many types of shorebirds.Walk along the village’s seaside boardwalk and view the intertidal wildlife. To get here, either take a boat from Quatsino Sound, a floatplane or drive the 75km dirt road from Port Hardy.

Port Alice

Located in the northern part of the island, on the banks of Neroutsos Inlet. The landscape surrounding the village is that of lush forests and several lakes, including Alice and Victoria Lakes. There is much freshwater fishing, camping, swimming and other outdoor recreation to be had. And don’t miss out on the beautiful Rumble Beach. To get here take Hwy 30 west from the main road (Hwy 19) going up and down Vancouver Island. Highway 30 is a few miles north of Port McNeill. There is even a challenging 9-hole golf course in the village.

Port Hardy

The largest community in North Vancouver Island, and the gateway to Cape Scott Provincial Park and the North Coast Trail. When visiting, be sure to stop by the Port Hardy Museum. You can take the BC Ferry to and from Prince Rupert, and in the summertime, the town can be awash with tourists enjoying the gorgeous natural scenery and many outdoor activities. Twenty-one kilometers northwest of the Port Hardy is Scarlett Point Lighthouse.

Sayward

Set in Sayward Valley at the mouth of the Salmon River, this village is flanked on both sides by lush mountains. (But we in the PNW like to call them ‘steep hills’. Once a logging town, Sayward is still peppered with antique logging equipment. View the world’s largest Cedar tree by hiking the Dalrymple Trail, then refuel with lunch or dinner at the Cable Cookhouse.   Get here by taking Hwy 19 north about an hour from Campbell River.

Tahsis

A mere 66 kilometer west of Gold River on Head By Road is Tahsis, a village of about 400 residents, on the north end of Nootka Sound and surrounded by rugged landscape. The road from Gold River is one of the most scenic drives in all of Vancouver Island. The waters near the village offer serious angling and kayaking opportunities. Fancy a bit of cave exploring? You’re in luck, Tahsis is known as the Cave Capital of Canada.

Gold River

About an hour’s drive west of Campbell River on Hwy 28 is Gold River.  Skirting the river bearing the same name, it is probably one of Vancouver Island newest communities, around since 1965. For outdoor enthusiasts, this village is known to have some of the most varied and plentiful fishing in all of the west coast of Canada. Captain James Cook first landed nearby on Nootka Island in 1778, and there are historical artifacts displayed.

Ahousat

Located on the west side of Flores Island, north of Tofino, this village is accessible only by water taxi or air. It is a First Nation village, with inhabitants primarily from the Nuu-chah-nulth indigenous people. Because of its somewhat isolated location, this village sees few tourists. And other than a few hiking trails and a couple of restaurants, there doesn’t seem as though there’s much to do, anyway. Nevertheless, the Nuu-chah-nulth people have a strong ceremonial culture, with many social gathering featuring song and dance.

Sooke

Less than an hour’s drive west from Victoria is the village of Sooke. Outdoor enthusiasts will marvel at the hiking, whale watching, surfing, bird watching and sport-fishing to be had here. Looking southward from the village is the Juan de Fuca Strait, and the United States (although you can’t see U.S. soil from Sooke itself.) Explore the nearby East Sooke RegionalParkk, which is part of the temperate rainforest. The village of Sooke itself is very walkable, where you can browse shops and artists’ studios.

How to Get to Vancouver Island

From Seattle, you have three options: by car, plane, or ferry. Riding the ferry is the most fun, and you can take your car with you. Take the Victoria Clipper from Seattle to Victoria, and then from that point, you can board the BC Ferries to get you to most of the other destinations I’ll mention here. There are also regular flights from Seattle to Victoria, Nanaimo, and Comox, but they are expensive! My advice is to plan ahead and take the scenic route via ferry. Be sure to get the latest travel requirements, and you will (obviously) be crossing an international border and will need your passport.

I hope that some of you reading this will take the opportunity to visit one or more of these very interesting destinations in the gorgeous magnificence that is Vancouver Island, British Columbia. If you do, please be sure to write to me and tell me about your experiences!