Out here in Northeastern Oregon, the Wild West still reigns supreme and the Wallowa Mountains are the focal point. Carved by the Oregon Trail, not a lot has changed since the good ‘ol days when hopeful future landowners blazed the trail by covered wagon. In this remote area of Oregon, you will find working ranches owned by the same family for 100 years.
The remote Eagle Cap mountains rise up from the high desert floor to dominate the horizon, creating wide-open vistas, ripe for exploration. At the base of the Wallowas are large fields of fauna, with clearings that are now, for the most part, empty. They were once occupied by mining towns, some of which are now of the ghost variety. Yes, that is a fancy way of saying ghost towns.
I didn’t know this about my state of Oregon. That we have a canyon that is actually deeper than the Grand Canyon. For comparison’s sake, go here. It is North America’s deepest river gorge and occupies the ancestral land of the Nez Pierce tribe.
Drive Hells Canyon Scenic Byway
From La Grande, take OR-82 to Elgin, and then to Enterprise. Go through Joseph and up in elevation to through the foothills of the majestic Wallowas. Easily done in a day, you can drive the entire 208-mile loop to see the major sights. More serious explorers and backpackers can spend a week or more here, horseback riding, hiking, fishing, and much more.
Joseph – A Town that is Tiny but Mighty
This cute little nugget of a town is full of artists – and it’s no wonder – just look at the scenery that surrounds it!
Stroll along the town’s main street and you will find plenty of local artisan shops and art galleries, casual restaurants, real estate offices (in case you want make your stay permanent), and historical sights. The Joseph Oregon Artwalk is a popular activity here. View a series of life-sized bronze sculptures, then settle down with a nice, locally-roasted coffee and people watch.
As Joseph is the “gateway to the Wallowas,” stop by the Wallowa Mountains Office on 2nd street for information and maps, permits, and other tourist information.
Hells Canyon – Another World
Stop at the Hells Canyon Overlook. Perched right at the rim, you will be looking over North America’s deepest canyon. And at the very bottom is the Snake River. But you won’t be able to see the bottom – but the gorge itself is completely stunning. More than a mile deep and carved by the river over eons of erosion.
The Hells Canyon National Recreation Area Visitor Center gives you a river-level look into the canyon. And if you want to experience the bottom up close and personal, sign up for a jet-boat excursion or rafting trip.
Ride the Gondola for an Epic Experience
This was the highlight of my visit. Just south of Joseph is the majestic Wallowa Lake. Follow highway 351 south along the eastern edge to the southern part of the lake and you will run into Matterhorn Village. This really is the Alps of the West. At Matterhorn Village, you can shop a couple of cute stores, grab an ice cream, and play a round of put-put golf.
But you will not want to miss the highlight – taking a gondola up 3,700 feet to the summit of Mt. Howard. I would not be exaggerating when I say that the views going up (and back down) are the most amazing in all of Oregon.
My one goal here was to ride a gondola to the top of Mt. Howard. It is an invigorating ride – just you and a gondola held firm by a strong thick cable, with a long drop to the bottom! Yes, you are completely safe – but I’m telling you – the older I get, the more afraid of heights I am. My fear made the trip up that much more exciting! It was an incredible experience.
Once at the top, there is a restaurant to grab some lunch and a loop trail that takes you all around the top of the mountain. People get married up here. It’s so grand and romantic!
Where to Stay in the Wallowas
Most people stay in Joseph or the next town north, called Enterprise, which is a little larger. Or stay along Wallowa Lake, for a truly rustic experience. There are hotels, lodges, resorts, camping, and AirBnbs to choose from. Of course, you have the option of staying in Baker City for an extended Eastern Oregon trip, however, that is a two-hour drive away from the Wallowas. Still, a good option if you want to have an extended trip and explore the Baker City area, as well.
Here is a link to all accommodations in the area and also vacation rentals. For Baker city, see my blog post here.
